IC Diamond 7 and Core i7 870

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AKwyn Posted: Fri, Feb 17 2012 4:35 AM

Okay. So I've had IC Diamond 7 applied on my Core i7 870 with an Asetek 92mm cooler for quite some time and the temps are odd for the stuff I applied. (40 degrees idle, 76 degrees load.) I've recently learned how to apply it properly (in a pea shape) but isn't giving me the performance that I expected; is there anything that I need to do. Do I have to make sure the mounting surface has none of the thermal paste on it? and if so what methods would I have to use to thoroughly clean it?

 

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realneil replied on Fri, Feb 17 2012 8:21 AM

Isopropyl Alcohol can be used to clean with if the machine is unplugged from the wall while you do it. Give plenty of time for it to dissolve before powering it back up. It would usually be long gone before you could re-apply paste and put the heat-sink back on anyways.

I use inexpensive coffee filters to clean with because they are abrasive enough to get the old Thermal Interface Material off easily, and they are lint-free. (they leave no tiny paper threads or residue behind)

 

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eunoia replied on Fri, Feb 17 2012 6:51 PM

The temps don't seem way out there to me, 40 idle is a bit high but 76 under load is perfectly safe. 

Cooler size (surface area) will be the most important for cooling efficiency.  TIM is probably the least important.  There are a lot of wildly diverging opinions about TIM, lapping, curing times and application and installation techniques out there but since you know what you're doing, it's worth experimenting for yourself and comparing.  I think most of the wilder claims of temp. diffences with different decent-quality TIMs are more due to variances in CPUs and installation.  Coincidentally, the main critique of IC 7 after exaggerating temp. differences is that it is abrasive enough to lap away the CPU markings.

To add to the fray of opinion, to me lapping isn't worth more than 1 degree in the vast majority of cases (properly manufactured cpu and cooler.)  You can check your contact surfaces with a straight edge, they should be flat or ever so slightly convex.  For applying TIM I use a " full-surface -credit-card-scrape-and-three-grains-of-rice" technique.  Someday I'll make a YouTube video on my own findings, but one thing I strongly suspect is that many beginners use too much TIM thinking more is better.  It isn't.

For re-trys, a lint-free cloth and almost any solvent should shine the surfaces back and evaporate quite effectively.

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rrplay replied on Tue, Nov 13 2012 9:51 AM

Even though some of this thread is a bit dated time wise, would have to agree that the IC7 performance may be a bit exaggerated and have found other paste to be easier to work with to get more consistent results. The only times I ever felt it to be worth wile to lapp any heatsink was when it visually appeared to be a bit less than scratch free

.

 

The above is the CM TPC 812 from beta testing and it is an excellent cooler, Usually when I see a  base that looks like this I would apply a 'tin' referencing the tinning method in soldering. and wipe away the excess to leave a sheen on the surface .Would have to agree with some of the other comments like @Neil  & don't feel like I am installing a cooler with out having coffee filter around. just not the same,

and like @eunioa mention about using a 3 dot and credit card swipe, and others may use a plastic wrap finger swipe it seems all OK to use a method and TIM that produces the most consistent results for them,Actually needed to apply a bit more TIM on the CM TPC 812 that accustomed to when putting it to the test on an FX 8150.

Just wanted to add that Phanteks use a a diamond particle TIM included in there coolers and it may take a bit of curing time. The tube I had from Phatek appears to be quite similar to the IC Diamond but not quite as thick. Still generally prefer to use MX2 or 4 and the Nocuta NH since they are easier to apply more consistently and do not need time to cure.Can easily break those in by cycling some heavy LinPack in 20 minute sessions with 10 minute cool down times in about 3  on- off cycles.

 

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realneil replied on Tue, Nov 13 2012 10:08 AM

IC Diamond worked OK for me temp wise, but it's a hassle to work with. It's just too thick.

I've gone back  to my old standard, Arctic Silver Premium Ceramic Polysynthetic Compound.

It's easy to spread and gives me good results. Once the Artic silver is gone, (2- 14 gram tubes) I'll still have 7 tubes of the IC Diamond left. So I'm set for years.

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rrplay replied on Tue, Nov 13 2012 11:01 AM

yeah the IC Diamond stuff is  just way to thick for me  and that's tight you has a boatload of the AS ceramic..Seems like you supply of diamond TIM  will last forever      ahh gawd  watta lame ref to great Bond flick Stick out tongue

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realneil replied on Tue, Nov 13 2012 12:07 PM

007 IS the man,.......................Big Smile

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