WaterCooling Experiences

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Overclocking Junkie Posted: Sat, Apr 1 2000 10:57 PM
Anybody have any good, bad, or other experiences with water coolers? What do you guys recommend, building your own or buying a kit? Thanx in advance for the help!

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--Overclocking Junkie

My System's specs:
Athlon 800@1050MHz w/ Afterburner and Alpha P7125 on a MSI 6195 (K7Pro)
Adaptec 131U2 SCSI RAID Kit with 2 IBM Ultrastar 18LZX 18GB 10K Hard Drives
IBM Deskstar 34GXP 32GB Hard Drive
Matrox G400MAX
Plexwriter 12/4/32 and UltraPlex 40X CD-ROM All wrapped up in a pretty Inwin Q500N
--Overclocking Junkie

I'll leave it to this: My OC'd System rocks, and I spend my days staring at my Sony F500R 21"er
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Cyric replied on Sun, Apr 2 2000 1:11 AM
I've been thinking about setting something up more extreme for cooling my rig.. we'll see how desperate I get for more mhz... I've been thinking either peltier, or water cooling... don't know yet..
Cyric the Immortal.
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I've been thinking about strapping a pelt on my Athlon and cooling the pelt with water, we'll see what happens though!

--Overclocking Junkie
--Overclocking Junkie

I'll leave it to this: My OC'd System rocks, and I spend my days staring at my Sony F500R 21"er
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OK, made my decision..... I'm going TEC with Water cooler on my P3500E system, NOT my Athlon. Anybody got any good places that sell TEC's? Hopefully I'll be able to push my 500E even further..... I'll throw this Maxtor drive into my Dad's computer and take his IBM.... Here we go!

--Overclocking Junkie
--Overclocking Junkie

I'll leave it to this: My OC'd System rocks, and I spend my days staring at my Sony F500R 21"er
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Cyric replied on Mon, Apr 3 2000 2:05 AM
I've been thinking the same thing, but, I've only built this system just before christmas.. so I'm still learing the ins and outs of it.. finding out exactly what it can do now, then I'll decided what to do..


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IceWind replied on Tue, Apr 4 2000 3:38 AM
Im not currently into overclocking, and with my Pentium 3 800mhz on its way, I doubt I'll find the need. However, for some reason, Im really into finding ways of keeping my new baby cool. Ever wonder what other ways to cool your stuff down? Sure, add all the fans you want, the supreme of heatsinks, but what about that outside air your computer is desperatly trying to suck into? Ive been currently thinking of way to hook a humidfier to the outside panel on the side of the case. Condensation worries? Nah, just have enough fans to circulate the air around and out and no problem. THink about it, nice fresh, cool, non dusty air being blown into the case. ahhhh.... such as my name. IceWind. Email me or reply here and tell me what you think of my idea.
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Gradius replied on Wed, Apr 12 2000 10:30 AM
Hi guys

Water is cool. No, really! It made my Athlon cooler than it really is . Check it out:

Athlon 600@900Mhz, with cache strapped to 1/3 (I can strap it to 2/5, but then my performance drops by about 5%...I can't understand it...not that it matters, I'll be shooting for 1000 soon.)
FIC SD11 bios rev 1.8
256MB (2x128) Toshiba PC100 sticks
Peltierized Asus V3800 TNT2 deluxe (not ultra )

My case is a AcerAltos 9000V Serverbox with a 422W Power supply...This baby is AWESOME... its got 12V AND 14v rails..PERFECT for my peltiers, and fans. unfortunaltely, its AT style, so i had to buy a 250W ATX PSU. I just run the Mobo off it...the hdd's and stuff run off the big mudda, so I get no problems running the 'Power hungry' cpu off it (I had no problem using the 250W WITH the hdd's and cd-roms and so on, anyway, so go figger...). The Big PSU is made by Delta Eelectronics, and the 250w is a, err...lemme think...aargh..a sun-something-whatever.

For my watercooling setup I bought two 72W 14volt "Duratec" TEC's from MARLOW Industries (http://www.marlow.com)..these babies kick ass, and were much cheaper than MELCOR units. Good thing the PSU has a 14v rail

For the waterblock and coldplate I bought the following:

1x 110x10x65mm Copper billet (waterblock)
1x 110x4x65mm Copper plate (it's "lid")
1x 110x4x40mm Copper plate (cold Plate)
2x 20x3x20mm copper cladding (cache shims)

I then had the pieces machined to get a nice 90' finish, and then I had the waterblock milled to create water passages, and screw holes drilled and tapped like so...

-------------------------
|O O|
| #### #### #### # |
| # # # # # # # |
| # # # # # # # |
| # # # # # # # |
| # #### #### #### |
|O O|
-------------------------

(Hmm i hope this looks right when not in courier EDIT: Obviously not!

The lid screws are countersunk and have holes over the ends of the water passage. Unfortunately, they are diagonally opposite, but I can live with it. The cache shims were sanded down by me until they fit flush with the cold plate, and the cold plate and water block were sanded and polished to an ultra smooth finish (2 weeks work...phew!). I didn't lap the peltiers, as they are very smooth already. They get sandwiched between the cold plate and waterblock (obviously)

The radiator is a new heater element out of a ford escort's (I think) dashboard...its perfectly sized. For pumping duties I have a 600L/h submersible pump...nice and quiet, but not much pressure, though. I've noticed that impeller-type pumps can move a lot of water, but cannot impart a lot of torque (pressure) to the water flow - the impeller will simply spin the water in its own housing without moving it. An in-line 12v pump would be much better in this regard.

The beauty of mu setup is that it all fits inside the 9000V casing...the casing is the same width as a normal one, but it is a full tower, and about 9" DEEPER than your normal Full tower...thats because the front part of the case contains a RAID rack, with enough space for 7 drives...and its got 3 fans on the side to draw out hot HDD air, so when you rip out all the little drive trays and the scsi backplane, you have LOTS of room to put pumps and radiators and reserviors and weenie PSU's . Whats more, its got a Lan-party handle, and little wheels at the back, like a suitcase

Anyway...when using a large copper setup like I did, be careful, as it's VERY heavy...the coldplate and waterblock must weigh almost 1KG! I had to strap the whole (insulated) lot to the casing to keep it from pulling out the cpu - what a mission!

Anyway...here I am happily running at 900...i dont really need the extra 100Mhz (my poor old TNT2 is already maxed out at 160/180 with smaller peltiers and heatsinks), but its something that I set out to do from the beginning...its why I bought the Athlon in the first place..to push it to and over 1000.

Anyway...when I rip the old bugger apart for some more soldering I'll take some pics for you guys...hopefully I'll have my site up and running by then.

But to get back to the original question: Its better to do it yourself...you'll have so much more satisfaction if it works first time (as it did for me), and you'll have no-one else to blame if you cock up

Take into account the ammount of money you have to spend, and the availablity of tools and materials (Obviously, if you don't have drilling and tapping equipment you'll have to have it done by a machine shop or a friend who has the stuff). All-in-all, I'm very happy with the ammount of money I spent(I coulda bawt a 650 instead of a 600 if you factor in the cost of everything else, and here I am running at 900...and the rig is here to stay, patiently awaiting a smaller but more complex chip to cool....

If you guys have any questions, don't hesitate to ask. Sorry about the god-awful long post

'gardz
Gradius




[This message has been edited by Gradius (edited 04-12-2000).]
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notrod replied on Mon, May 29 2000 6:22 PM
Just some thoughts on water cooling in general. I've worked in the automotive service industry for 26 years and a lot of the same principals apply.
First, there seems to be a lot of misinformation about water pumps. First off, pressure is not important in a PC application. Matter of fact, excess pressure could be a bad thing, causing leaks in weak spots and so on.
Also, hi flow is not good. you can move the water so fast past the water block that it doesn't have time to absorb the heat. Cars have thermostats for 2 reasons, one to control the tempature and second to restrict the water flow so the coolant stays in the block and radiator long enough to transfer heat. So don't automatically buy the the biggest pump you can. In the case of a PC smaller may be better.
For the best cooling make sure you have a fan the same size as your radiator blowing lots of air over it. You might want to look at electric radiator fans from cars powered by a seperate 12v power supply or a battery charger.
Air in a cooling system is major bad. It causes nasty things to grow in the system as well as causing hot pockets in the worst places. A bleedoff valve installed in the highest point of the system would take care of that problem.
And lastly, the best thing to use in your system is plain old distilled water. Automotive coolant will actually reduce the cooling effect. Cars need it for the extreme tempatures they encounter, but I doubt if your PC ever experiences -30.
Hope this helps.

Notrod
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